TL;DR: To create porcelain figurines, mix porcelain slip, pour it into a plaster mold, demold the greenware, then clean, bisque fire, glaze, and high-fire the piece. With patience and proper kiln temperatures, you can produce detailed, translucent sculptures worthy of display.
Step 1: Gather Materials and Set Up Your Workspace
You will need porcelain slip (pre-mixed for casting), a two-part plaster mold, a bucket, a stirring stick, a sponge, a fettling knife, a kiln, and porcelain glaze. Work in a dust-free, well-ventilated area with a sturdy table. Porcelain is more plastic and translucent than stoneware, but it also shrinks more—typically 12–15%—so plan your mold size accordingly.
If you want to dig deeper, check out our guide on How to Paint Porcelain Figurines: A Beginner’s Step-by-Step .
Step 2: Pour the Porcelain Slip
Stir the slip gently to eliminate lumps, then pour it steadily into the mold until full. Wait 10–20 minutes for the plaster to absorb water, forming a wall of clay inside. Pour out the excess slip back into your bucket. Let the mold sit until the cast firm is leather-hard, usually 30–60 minutes.
Step 3: Demold and Clean the Greenware
Open the mold carefully and remove the fragile figurine. Use a sponge to smooth seam lines and a fettling knife to remove flash. Attach separate parts (arms, head) with porcelain slip as “glue.” Let the greenware air-dry completely—bone-dry—before firing.
Step 4: Bisque Fire
Place the dry figurine in a kiln and fire to cone 04 (about 1,940°F / 1,060°C). This bisque firing hardens the porcelain without melting it. Cool slowly to prevent cracking.
Step 5: Glaze and High-Fire
Apply porcelain glaze by dipping, brushing, or spraying. Wipe the bottom clean to avoid sticking. Fire again to cone 6–10 (2,232–2,380°F / 1,222–1,305°C) depending on your clay body. The high fire vitrifies the porcelain, giving it that signature translucence and strength.
Tips for Stunning Results
Keep molds dry between pours. Avoid thick walls—they cause explosions in the kiln. Test your glaze on a small tile first. For fine details, use a soft brush and thin glaze. Always ramp kiln temperature slowly during the first 1,000°F.
FAQ
Q: Can I make porcelain figurines without a kiln?
A: No—porcelain requires high-temperature firing to vitrify. Air-dry clay is not a substitute for true porcelain.
Q: Why did my figurine crack during firing?
A: Cracks usually come from trapped moisture, uneven wall thickness, or firing too fast. Dry thoroughly and ramp slowly.
Q: How do I achieve translucent porcelain?
A: Use a true porcelain body (high feldspar, low iron) and fire to at least cone 6. Thinner walls increase translucency.
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