TL;DR: To make stunning porcelain figurines, mix porcelain slip, pour it into a plaster mold, and fire the dried greenware at cone 6–8. Finish with fine sanding, glaze, and a second firing for a glossy, durable sculpture.
Step 1: Gather Materials
You will need porcelain slip (pre-mixed or homemade), a two-part plaster mold of your figurine, a pouring jug, a bucket of water, a sponge, a fettling knife, fine sandpaper (400–800 grit), and a kiln. For glazing, choose a food-safe or decorative porcelain glaze. Work in a dust-free, well-ventilated space.
If you want to dig deeper, check out our guide on Tech Behind Porcelain: How 3D Printing Reshapes Sculpture.
Step 2: Prepare the Mold
Secure the two halves of your plaster mold with rubber bands. Mix the porcelain slip thoroughly—it should be the consistency of heavy cream. If it has been sitting, stir gently to avoid bubbles. Pour a small test to check viscosity.
Step 3: Cast the Figurine
Pour the slip into the mold in a steady stream, filling it to the top. Wait 10–20 minutes; the plaster absorbs water, forming a solid layer against the walls. When the layer is about 1/4 inch thick (for a small figurine), pour out the excess slip. Let the mold sit upside down to drain for 5 minutes, then place upright to dry until the clay feels leather-hard (1–2 hours).
Step 4: Remove and Clean
Open the mold carefully. The figurine should release easily. Use a sponge to smooth seams and a fettling knife to remove mold lines. Repair any cracks with slip. Let the piece dry completely (bone-dry) for 24–48 hours in a cool, shaded area—never rush with heat, as porcelain cracks easily.
Step 5: Bisque Fire
Place the dry figurine in a kiln and fire to cone 06 (about 1828°F / 998°C). This hardens the porcelain without melting it. Let the kiln cool slowly overnight. Sand any rough spots with 400-grit sandpaper, then wipe clean.
Step 6: Glaze and Glaze Fire
Apply a thin, even coat of porcelain glaze using a brush or dip. Avoid thick pools at the base. Fire to cone 6 (about 2232°F / 1222°C) for a translucent, glass-like finish. Cool slowly to prevent thermal shock.
Tips for Stunning Results
Use distilled water in slip to avoid mineral spots. Add a few drops of vinegar to improve flow. For delicate details, cast thinner walls. Always test glaze on a scrap piece first. Keep molds dry between uses.
FAQ
Q: Can I make porcelain figurines without a kiln?
A: No—porcelain requires high-temperature firing to vitrify. You can use air-dry clay for practice, but it will not be true porcelain.
Q: Why do my figurines crack during drying?
A: Cracks usually come from uneven drying or thick walls. Dry slowly under a plastic sheet, and keep walls uniform.
Q: How do I achieve a glossy finish on porcelain sculptures?
A: Apply a compatible porcelain glaze and fire to cone 6. For a matte look, use a satin glaze and sand lightly after firing.
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